Spring Chick Checklist: From Brooder to Coop

Raising chicks this spring? This simple spring chick checklist helps you care for them from brooder days to coop life with confidence.

Spring is one of my favorite seasons for so many reasons, but one reason is because it’s chick season! Springtime brings optimal conditions for raising baby chicks – the longer daylight hours align with natural breeding cycles for chickens, and the mild temperatures reduce stress and disease in young chicks. As they grow and the weather warms, the transition to outdoor coops is smooth and simple.

This spring chick checklist will cover all the basics to care for day-old chicks up through their transition to coop life. This post will walk you through prep work, brooder basics, growing and feathering out, and transitioning from brooder to coop.

If you’re brand new to chicks, don’t worry about getting everything perfect. Chickens really are the easiest animal on the homestead, and are lovingly dubbed “the gateway animal”. Warning: once you have chickens, you might want to add more animals to your homestead!

Before the Chicks Arrive: Prep Work

Before you pick up your chicks, you’ll want to get their home for the next several weeks set up and cozy. You’ll also want to have a few basic supplies on hand. Here is a quick rundown of everything you need to get started with newly hatched chicks.

The Newly Hatched Chick Essentials

Chicks don’t need a lot to get started, but they do need the basics: a protected space that’s warm and cozy, fresh water and food. There’s also a few things that people often forget when they pick up their baby chicks. Let’s go over it.

Brooder

A brooder is a place where newly hatched chicks are raised until they have enough feathers to keep themselves warm. Chicks will only be a day or so old when you get them, so they don’t need a lot of space at first. You can buy a chick brooder, or if you have an extra stock tank lying around, they make great brooders.

But if you’re just raising a backyard flock, usually a cardboard box or plastic tote works just fine as a brooder. Secure the top of the box or tote with a piece of wire mesh to keep the chicks safe from pets and kids. You may also want to lay a piece of cardboard or plywood across part of the top to keep out drafts, depending on where you plan to keep the chicks.

Heat Source

The chicks will also need a source of heat for their first few months of life. A chick’s body cannot effectively regulate it’s temperature until about 20 days of age, when their fuzzy down starts to give way to feathers. Generally, chicks hatched in late winter or early spring require brooder warmth for 8 to 12 weeks, while chicks hatched in late spring or early summer require heat for 6 to 8 weeks. A brooder heat lamp, which you can find at most farm supply or hardware stores, is a relatively inexpensive clamp-type light with an aluminum reflector.

Bedding

Bedding is important to keep the chicks warm, and you’ll need to change it every so often to keep them clean and dry. Pine shavings work well as bedding for chicks. Until the newly hatched chicks are eating well (days 1 and 2), cover the bedding with paper towels or a similar rough material. This keeps the chicks from pecking the shavings.

Space

As a general rule, allow 1/2 square foot of space per chick up to four weeks of age, and then 1 square foot per chick up to eight weeks of age. More space isn’t necessarily better, especially when they are very young. If allowed too much space, especially during cold weather, they’ll have trouble staying warm.

Water

Chicks can go without water for up to 48 hours after they hatch, but the sooner they drink water, the better. As you place the chicks into the brooder, dip each one’s beak into the waterer and make sure it swallows before releasing the chick.

The easiest way to provide water for young chicks is a quart-size gravity style waterer. Don’t be tempted to provide water with an open dish – the chicks will walk in it, which not only makes a mess but can also make the chicks wet and cold, making way for disease. It can also cause drowning.

Feed

The best feed for chicks is chick starter, which you can find at any feed store or farm supply. Do not feed chicks layer ration, even in an emergency – its high calcium content can damage their kidneys. In an emergency if you run out or forgot to pick up some chick starter, you can make a homemade chick ration by combining equal parts uncooked whole oats and cornmeal. Just run the oats through the blender to mince them up a bit before mixing. Don’t feed this homemade ration longer than needed, but it does work in an emergency.

Supplies People Forget

Now that we’ve covered the basics, there’s also a few optional (but helpful) things that people often forget.

Electrolyte and vitamin solutions can be added to water to help chicks get off to their best start. You can find these supplements in the feed or farm supply store, and sometimes there’s an option to include them in your order if you’re shipping chicks.

If your chicks were shipped, using one of these solutions for the first few weeks is a good idea to help them overcome shipping stress. Even if your chicks weren’t shipped, they will still benefit from an electrolyte solution for the first week or so, as hatching is a stressful ordeal!

Extra bedding is very helpful to have on hand, as chicks can soil bedding pretty quickly. A backup heat source might be a good idea if you are keeping your chicks in an unheated space (like a garage or barn) and are worried about the cold.

A thermometer is handy to determine what temperature is just right for your chicks. But if you don’t have a thermometer, not to worry – you can just watch the chicks and adjust the heat lamp based off their body language.

Where to Place the Brooder

Deciding where to keep your chick brooder is entirely dependent on what options you have available. Chicks are messy little creatures, so most people don’t want them right in the house. You’ll also want to protect them from any potential meddlers, like pets and young children.

However, it is nice to have them in a space that isn’t too drafty, especially if you live in a cold climate. Access to electricity is also a must. Common places to keep chicks are garages, barns, shops, laundry or mud rooms.

Week 1–2: Brooder Basics

Ideal Temperature

Start the brooding temperature at 95 degrees and gradually reduce (by raising the lamp) about 5 degrees each week until at room temperature. Temperature should be measured about 2 inches off the ground (chick height). However, you don’t have to use a thermometer to know how much heat your chicks need. You can observe the chicks’ body language and adjust the heat lamp accordingly.

If they’re huddled directly under the lamp, it’s too cold for them. If they’re crammed away from the lamp, they’re too hot. The chicks should be spaced out comfortably throughout the brooder, indicating the heat is just right.

Light

Light is really important for chicks as it directly affects their growth rate. To help the chicks find feed and water, light the brooder continuously for the first two days. After that, if the brooder gets natural daylight, you can turn the lights off during the day.

Even if the light is the chicks source of heat, turning it off for a half hour each day will get the chicks used to not having a light all the time, like when they move into their permanent housing.

Feeding Schedule

Chicks should be fed within 3-5 hours after they’ve had their first drink of water. They can survive another day or two after hatching without eating, but they’ll have a much better start if they eat on the first day. To help freshly hatched chicks learn to peck and eat, start by sprinkling a little starter ration on a paper plate. Once most of the chicks have the hang of it, you can add more food as needed. After the first week or when the chicks start scratching vigorously, you’ll need to switch to a regular chick feeder so they don’t waste too much food.

And if you’re debating whether or not to get the big bag of chick starter ration – generally, you can expect each chick to eat about 10 pounds of starter ration during its first 10 weeks of life.

Water

For the first day or two, keep the waterer fairly close to the heat source where all the chicks can easily find it. It probably goes without saying, but water is very important throughout a chicken’s life and especially for very young chicks. Even minimal dehydration can cost you chicks, so make sure chicks have access to fresh, clean water at all times.

Daily Cleaning

Keeping the brooder clean and dry will keep the chicks happy and healthy, and prevent disease. Check bedding daily and change out as needed. Clean waterers daily and refill with fresh water. Fill feeders in the morning and allow them to finish the food before adding more. This keeps the food nice and fresh. Don’t let them go too long without food or they might start picking at each other. Clean feeders at least once a week.

If you find the chicks are spilling too much water into their bedding, after the first week you can place the waterer on a raised platform. A square frame made with 1 x 2 inch boards, covered with mesh hardware cloth, can be placed under the waterer. Or, this style waterer with adjustable heights works great.

Minimizing Stress and Promoting Health

Making sure chicks drink water soon after they hatch, and eat within five hours of hatching, will help minimize stress. Electrolyte and vitamin solutions added to their water is also helpful in reducing stress, especially if the chicks were shipped.

Stress in chicks can also be caused by chilling or overheating, so make sure they are comfortable under the heat lamp. Also, avoid exposing chicks to more than one stressor at a time – don’t change their waterer, feeder, and move them to new housing all at once. If you change out their waterer or feeder, be sure to leave the old one in place for a few days until you are sure all the chicks have adapted to the new one.

You can boost the chicks’ immunity by providing probiotics. This is especially helpful for artificially incubated chicks (which is most commonly the case), as the intestines of these chicks colonize more slowly than naturally hatched chicks. You can find probiotic formulas at a farm supply or feed store, or you can feed your chicks a little yogurt. Just a little though – too much yogurt will cause diarrhea.

Week 3–5: Growing & Feathering Out

Space Needs as Chicks Grow

As chicks grow, they’ll gradually need less heat and more space. By five weeks, they’ll need about 1 square foot of space per chick. Whether or not you have an in-between space for adolescent chicks (often called a grower house in more sophisticated operations) is up to you.

Introducing the chicks gradually to the elements is nice, but you can also brood chicks right from the start in what will be their permanent housing, as long as you have a way to keep them warm and semi-confined so they don’t get too far away from the heat lamp as newly hatched chicks.

When Chicks Can Handle Cooler Temps

Chicks hatched in late spring or early summer require heat for 6-8 weeks, and chicks hatched in late winter or early spring will need heat for a few weeks longer. However, the temperature of the heat source is gradually reduced each week until the chicks are comfortable at room temperature.

This is why the ideal time for raising chicks is spring, as the outside temperatures are usually nice and mild right around the time that the chicks are ready to move to their outdoor coop. However, you don’t have to wait until the chicks don’t need a heat source to move them – the heat lamp can move along with them.

Managing Dust, Smell and Mess

It’s a good thing chicks grow fast, because chances are, you’ll be more than ready for them to move fully outside after a few weeks of cleaning up after them. As they grow, their messes also grow, and they’ll need a larger feeder that they can’t bill the food out of, a larger waterer, and more space and air flow.

If you are surprised at how much of a mess a few little chicks can make – don’t stress. The brooder period only lasts for a few weeks, and they’ll be out of your hair in no time.

Introducing Grit and Treats

Free-range chickens, pastured chickens, or those consuming grains and vegetation need grit in their gizzards to grind up grains, bugs and plant matter. Grit is just small pebbles and large grains of sand ,pecked by a chicken, that lodges in its gizzard. Grit basically acts as a chicken’s teeth.

Chickens that only consume commercial mash or pellets don’t need grit because the food is softened by the chicken’s saliva. Therefore, chicks eating starter rations do not need grit, but when you introduce grains (like scratch) and vegetation, you’ll want to make sure that they also have access to grit.

Preparing the Coop for New Chickens

Usually by about 4 to 6 weeks, the chicks are ready to transition to their outdoor living quarters. You’ll know it’s time when the chicks are outgrowing their brooder and ready for more space.

Coop Cleaning and Predator Check

If you’re starting with a brand new coop, then you won’t need to clean much. Just make sure it’s free of debris and any building materials like screws or nails.

If your coop has housed birds before, make sure you give it a thorough cleaning before moving your new chicks in. Shovel out any bedding and droppings, sweep out all the dust and cobwebs, and spray down the coop with a disinfectant. Leave the doors and windows open all day to let it dry thoroughly. A good homemade disinfectant can be made by mixing equal parts white vinegar and water. I also like to add some essential oils – favorites for the coop include oregano, lemon, tea tree and lavender.

Unfortunately, chickens are ideal prey for many hungry predators. Foxes, skunks, and raccoons are most common in backyard settings, but even bears in more rural areas will take advantage of poorly constructed coops. Make sure your coop is of solid construction with no gaps or holes, and any vents or windows are covered with mesh wire. Chickens go to bed with the sun, so close them in securely as soon as it gets dark at night.

Bedding, Roosts, Nests and Ventilation

A good layer of bedding absorbs moisture and droppings, provides insulation for the coop, and cushions the chickens’ feet. Pine shavings work great in the coop because they’re inexpensive, absorbent, and they don’t mat as easily as straw. Start with a 4-inch layer of bedding. If you’re looking for an easy and efficient method for managing bedding, check out the deep litter system.

Chickens like to perch off the ground at night, so roosts are essential. Chicks begin looking to perch at about 4 to 6 weeks of age, depending on the breed. Start the roosts close to the floor and move them up as the chicks learn to use them. Allow about 4 inches of roosting space per chick or about 8-10 inches for mature hens. Perches are best made of a rough material like wood, so the chickens can grip it. For mature birds, perches should be about 2 inches across and about 2 feet off the ground.

Pullets (young hens) won’t start laying eggs until 5-6 months of age, but installing nests beforehand will encourage your chickens to lay eggs where you can find them, once they start laying. Hens like to lay their eggs in dark, quiet places, so place nests on the darkest wall of your coop. Install one nesting box for every four pullets in your flock, first on the ground until they get accustomed to using them. Then you can move the boxes about 1.5-2 feet off the ground. Pad the boxes with clean bedding and change it often.

Good coop ventilation is important as chickens are susceptible to respiratory problems. Ventilation holes near the ceiling of the coop, windows, and even fans in hot climates can help keep the air circulating in the coop.

When To Use Heat In The Coop

Unless the weather is very fair and you’ve already weaned your chicks off of the heat lamp completely, you will probably want to use the heat lamp in their coop when you transition them. Use your best judgement here, depending on the weather and your chicks’ age.

We usually use the heat lamp for the first few nights once we transition our chicks to their outdoor coop. Attaching the heat lamp to a spot where the chicks can get to it if they need, but can also get away from it if they get too warm, is a good idea. You can sneak a peak in the coop after dark to see if the chicks are using it or not, and that will help you determine when to remove the heat lamp.

Transition Time: Moving From Brooder to Coop

Congratulations – you’ve made it to the final stage of the brooder, and it’s almost time to transition your chicks to their permanent living quarters! Let’s go over everything you need to know about the transition from brooder to coop.

Signs Chicks Are Ready to Move Outside

By now, your chicks will have grown significantly in size and should be almost completely feathered out. They might be showing signs of boredom, trying to perch or fly out of their brooder, and they will most definitely become increasingly messy with all of their scratching. These are all signs that it’s time for your chicks to move outside.

How Old Should Chicks Be To Move Outside

Generally speaking, chicks are ready to move outside between 4 and 6 weeks of age, as long as the weather is nice. Keep in mind that they will probably need the heat lamp for a few more weeks, so just make sure your outdoor coop can accommodate that.

If the weather is nasty, you may want to wait until a window of nice weather. This gives the chicks their best possible start in their new home.

Gradual vs Immediate Transition

A gradual transition to the outdoors is probably better in terms of minimizing stress on the chicks. Practically speaking, however, an immediate transition is much easier. And sometimes, it just so happens that the chicks make too much of a mess and have to be evicted from their brooder quarters.

If possible, introduce the chicks to the outdoors anytime after two weeks old, as long as the weather is warm and sunny. You can put them in a pen, covered with wire mesh to keep predators out, on the lawn for a few hours each day. Make sure they have shade and water, and move them to a fresh spot to forage each day.

First-Night Checklist

Here’s a quick rundown of everything your chicks need for their first night in the coop.

Water. Hanging, gravity fed waterers are cheap and convenient waterers for chickens. Check waterers daily to ensure the chickens always have fresh drinking water, and clean and disinfect waterers once a week.

Feed. Hanging feeders are the most popular type of feeders for chickens, as raising the feeder off the ground helps prevent waste.

Bedding. A 4-inch layer of pine shavings to start is ideal.

Perch. Start out with a beginner’s perch close to the ground for young birds. Allow 4 inches of space per chick.

Heat lamp. Whether or not you use a heat lamp in the coop depends on the age of your chicks and the weather, but providing a little heat the first few nights will give you peace of mind.

Secure enclosure. Closing the chickens in their coop at night prevents loss from predators.

Common Spring Chick Mistakes to Avoid

While chicks are one of the easiest farm animals to raise, there are still a few things you’ll want to avoid.

Mistake #1: Moving Them Outside Too Early

Unless your coop is set up for young chicks, you’ll want to avoid moving them outside too early. It can be difficult to control the heat properly, and too warm or too cold can cause serious problems in very young chicks.

Mistake #2: Overheating Chicks

Both overheating and underheating can cause serious problems with chicks, especially when they’re very young. However, it is important to reduce the heat level gradually, within the chicks’ comfort zone, so they feather out properly.

Mistake #3: Skipping Predator-Proofing

This is an all-too-common fatal mistake for chicken owners. Failing to predator-proof your coop will inevitably result in losses, sooner or later. Regularly inspect your coop to make sure there are no open gaps or holes that a predator can slip through.

Mistake #4: Treat Overload

Treats, such as scratch or other treat blends, can serve a couple different purposes – they can be used as a training device to teach chickens to come when called and they can give laying hens a little energy boost. However, treats are not a replacement for laying ration and should be fed sparingly. Feeding too many treats can reduce protein in the chickens’ diets and make them overweight and unhealthy, which will cause egg production to suffer.

Final Spring Chick Checklist

Here is a summary of everything we went over above – feel free to screenshot or print!

Make sure to have these essentials on hand before getting chicks:

• Brooder
• Heat lamp (and extension cords if needed)
• Bedding
• Chick waterer
• Chick starter ration
• Chick feeder

Extras:

• Electrolyte/vitamin solutions
• Extra bedding
• Backup heat source
• Thermometer

Brooder Basics

• Ideal starting temperature is 95 degrees; gradually reduce 5 degrees each week until at room temperature
• Allow 1/2 square foot of space per chick up to four weeks of age
• Make sure chicks have light
• Feed free choice starter ration, switch to a regular feeder once chicks start scratching vigorously
• Chicks need plenty of clean, fresh water at all times
• Check bedding daily and clean out as needed
• Don’t switch too many things in chicks’ environment at once
• Add probiotics or a little yogurt to chicks’ diet to promote healthy gut colonization

Growing and Feathering Out

• By 5 weeks, allow about 1 square foot of space per chick
• Gradual reduction in heat lamp temperature will help chicks feather out
• After two weeks, let chicks out on grass in a predator-safe pen for a few hours each day, weather permitting
• Make sure chickens with access to treats or vegetation also have access to grit for their gizzards

Preparing the Coop for New Chickens

• Clean coop and make sure it’s predator-safe
• Provide bedding, beginner roosts, nests and ventilation
• Chicks hatched in late spring or early summer require heat for 6-8 weeks, and chicks hatched in late winter or early spring will need heat for a few weeks longer

Transitioning from Brooder to Coop

• Watch for signs the chicks are ready to move outside
• Wait for a window of nice weather
• Gradual transition is less stressful – introduce chicks to the outdoors beforehand

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Moving chicks outside too early
• Overheating
• Skipping predator-proofing
• Treat overload

If you are new to raising chicks, I hope this post was helpful and informative. If you are just thinking about raising chicks but aren’t quite sure, I encourage you to give it a try! Chickens are an easy and fun homestead animal, with potential to provide varying levels of self-sufficiency from beginner to advanced.

If you’re a seasoned chicken keeper, let me know if I missed any spring chick tips with a comment below. Thanks for reading!